Newsflash: Lumiere London is back. And whether you know much about it or not, if you so much as stray into King’s Cross, Piccadilly, Southbank or Mayfair, you’re bound to trip into some lights fantastic.
2018’s Lumiere London is bigger, brighter and brasher (light up candy floss, anyone?) than previous years, and it remains one of the best free activities you can enjoy all year.
It’s also only on until Sunday 21st January so you’ll need to be snappy if you want in. All those electricity bills I expect.
Tempted? Download the Visit London app to plan your route and don’t forget to wrap up warm, it’s cold work enjoying good art.
Scroll for my pick of some of the loveliest Lumiere has to offer:
Nightlife by Lantern with Jo Pocock. A menagerie of lit up animals in Leicester Square was always going to be incredibly popular, so bang goes the aim of this ‘secret garden’ to be a space for ‘quiet reflection’. It’s lovely though, and who doesn’t love lovely?AETHER by the Architecture Social Club. The forecourt of the huge Waitrose in King’s Cross has never seen so much action. A beautiful soundscape accompanies the installation. Elbow your way into the centre for the best view.The Light of the Spirit (Chapter 2) by Patrice Warrener. Back at Westminster Abbey after two years and bigger and brighter than ever, the colourful imagination of digital artist Warrener has been let loose on the Great West Gate. A must see.LAMPOUNETTE by TILT. If, like me, you once bought a Tiny Tim Booklightso you could feel like a giant next to it, well now you get to feel like a Borrower in King’s Cross! Head to King’s Boulevard for your time to shine.Harmonic Portal by Chris Plant. St James’s Church is usually viewed from just one angle, Piccadilly street. Plant’s work takes you to the walls of the churchyard on Jermyn Street.DOT by Philippe Morvan. Warm. Pulsing. Dotty. Streams of light set to a surprisingly spine-tingly soundtrack composed especially for Lumiere by composers Solomon Grey.Love Motion by Rhys Coren. As if you needed an excuse to have a gander round the Royal Academy courtyard. A delightful animated film played on on the façade of Burlington House.Child Hood by Collectif Coin. The best way to end your Lumiere tour. The sight of Trafalgar Square packed with luminous balloons, lit up at intervals to a throb of sounds.Child Hood by Collectif Coin, re-imagined as an abstract landscape by me.
It opened back in November so if you’re eagle eyed you’ll have beaten me to it but I visited London Mithraeum Bloomberg SPACElast weekend and I left seriously impressed. When even the loos are remarkable, you know you’re onto something.
Part contemporary art space and part reconstructed Roman temple, there’s a lot more to this place than appears on entering, starting with the beautifully displayed excavated Roman artefacts that you can explore via tablets (of the Samsung, not ancient, variety).
Walking literally down through history, you’ll hear the soothing sounds of Joanna Lumley introducing experts as you wait for the transfixing experience of the temple’s big reveal – the details of which I won’t spoil!
The 2,000 year old Roman temple was dedicated to the god Mithras who had a mysterious cult following and archaeologists uncovered it in the 1950s.
It was moved off site, but with the building and recent reopening of Bloomberg’s European headquarters on Walbrook street (‘the world’s most sustainable office‘), the temple has been returned to almost exactly the same space it occupied in the 3rd century AD.
The midnight fever of fireworks out of the way for another year, it’s time to focus on forgetting those rubbish resolutions and plan for the important stuff instead – where you’ll be travelling.
What do I have planned?
I’ll be hoping for snow, glorious snow in early February as I visit my brother Stephen in Stockholm, checking out what the local pistes have to offer.
For the rest of the year I’ll be ticking off some big names; I’ll be taking a bite out of the Big Apple when I head to New York in late April early May for nine days, visiting friends.
I’ll spend a June weekend in Vienna, enjoying living locally in a friend’s family apartment.
Later in the year I head out to Hong Kong to meet my brother (fresh from his travels around the Himalayas and China) and together we’ll explore Japan.
Have you experienced New York, Hong Kong or Japan off the beaten track or shared experiences with locals? I’d love to hear from you!
The best way to keep up to date with my travels is to follow this blog and join me on Instagram and Twitter.
Day 365 is nearly over, but before thoughts turn to far flung travel in 2018 I thought I’d look back over some 2017 highlights.
Read on for some of my favourite photos from my travels and top tips if you’re planning your own city break in 2018.
Paris
Having last walked the streets of Paris eight years ago, I found myself in the city of chic twice this year and I wrote about living like a local in May.
I have friends who live in Milan which means we do the things the Milanese love to do – like getting out of the city!
In the same Alpine valley that produces Bresaola air-dried beef, haul yourself and your skis up to the Piani di Bobbio, a small resort an hour outside Milan by car and perfect for a day trip.
Porto is a city best viewed on foot so get lost in its back streets, and don’t forget to look up!
I walked my socks off round the compact city back in May, read my recommendations for 72 hours in Porto.
Venice
Venice was a big highlight of the year for me. We dodged tourists, jumped on water buses whenever we could and explored the canals in the midnight mist; we glided out to islands in the lagoon at sunset, found food worthy of both carnivoresandherbivores and, naturally, sampled the odd cocktail or two (forget negronis, ask for ‘uno spritz’).
For the absolute best breakfast ritual (and the best crockery in town), head to Pasticceria Tonolo. Long and narrow, you might have to scuffle to find space, but it’ll have been worth it when you sink your teeth into any of their pastries.
Copenhagen
Getting cosy with culture was easy in Copenhagen and I recently wrote about my top five art experiences in the Danish capital. A must-see if you have the time, travel 29 miles north of Copenhagen for the modern art gallery on a cliff edge, the Louisiana.
Once you’ve got a fill of great art, head back into the city centre to Hallernes in Nørreport for fully loaded Smørrebrød.
Stockholm
I’ll be heading out to my favourite Scandinavian capital in February for some ski action and I was there last in spring, a lovely season for getting out to the archipelago islands.
Enjoy a leisurely cycle across the lengths of Utö and Ålö or challenge yourself and your bike on the rugged tracks of Svartsö.
It may not be so sunny in Dublin at this time of year but that doesn’t matter, Guinness doesn’t need it!
From the Bompas & Parr-designed tasting rooms and rooftop bar to the surround sound cinema and colourful brand gallery, the Guinness Storehouse doesn’t put a pint-sized foot wrong. Oh, and the stout isn’t bad either.
Copenhagen, the achingly cool capital of Denmark. Home of cycling, great design, hygge and, as I recently found out, full of wonderful art.
Whether you like yours ancient or modern, Copenhagen knows how to house it, leaving even the least interested spectator impressed. If art is all about experiences, these are my pick of the top five you should have.
A must-do for fans of classical sculpture that also happens to be non-stop Instagrammable. You may not have heard of him but Thorvaldsen’s sculptures adorn many major cities across Europe.
Look out for Jason (above), the Alexander frieze, Ganymede with Zeus’s eagle and endless colourful corridors of rooms – making for a marvellous treat of a museum. (2 Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads. Adult 70 DKK, about £8, or free on Wednesdays. Closed Mondays).
This international art gallery makes for a great day trip by train along a scenic route that also takes you to Kronborg castle, of Hamlet fame. The gallery is set in lush sculpture-speckled gardens looking out to sea and a series of wood and glass corridors bring the outdoors in, the indoors out.
Big names including Ernst, Hockney and Giacometti form their rotating permanent collection on display alongside enviable blockbusters, most recently 100 works by Marina Abramović. (Follow signs from Humlebæk station. Adult 125 DKK, about £15. Closed Mondays)
A labyrinth of beautiful interiors full of art amassed by one man, lawyer C. L. David. It’s no surprise that the gallery is free entry; as well as leaving one of the world’s most important collections of Islamic art behind, David also left a huge fortune on his death in 1960.
Over 12 centuries of Islamic art means you would need to devote most of a day to examining it all, so look out for special exhibitions and temporary photographic displays to pick out highlights. (30-32 Kronprinsessegade. Free admission. Closed Mondays).
A museum owned by Carlsberg is probably going to be the best in the world, right? Well, not quite, but its grand botanical garden of an atrium and collection of 19th Century French art, housed in a modern wing, make it worthwhile for any art fan. Save and go when it’s free entry on Tuesdays.
On now, head to the Café for Danish artist HuskMitNavn’s cartoon take on people just like you. (Dantes Plads 7. Adult 95 DKK, about £11 or free on Tuesdays. Closed Mondays).
Growing up as I did with London’s National Gallery on my doorstep, other European cities have a hard act to follow. But I fell in love with SMK’s sensational French art gallery and their temporary exhibition programme is a refreshing mix of blockbuster shows and homegrown talent.
On until 7 January, Family Stories from Turner Prize-winning artist Gillian Wearing. (Sølvgade 48-50. Adult 110 DKK, about £13 or save on entry to five museums with a Parkmuseerne card. Closed Mondays).
‘How long do your hands have to be this cold, before you get frostbite and they fall off?’
Night had fallen on a glacial February day, 493km into our journey north from Reykjavik by car. 1km to go and we were tantalisingly close to our X on the map, our remote Airbnb farmhouse in Öxnadalur, northern Iceland. But our tiny Suzuki Jimny 4×4 (world’s smallest 4×4, surely?) could take us no further.
Alone against a backdrop of darkness. Going uphill. In a snow drift. On foot. Hands so cold I thought I might need to ‘do a Ranulph Fiennes‘. But we’d found our adventure in Iceland and it was time to follow the lights.
1. A journey begunWe said goodbye to Reykjavik that morning, disappointed that we’d not seen any sign of Aurora Borealis four nights in to our week long trip. We were confident that we’d have better luck staying outside Iceland’s second largest city, Akureyri.
On a clear day it should have taken us 3.5 hours to travel the 294km to Varmahlíð, above. It took us closer to 5 hours, with no toilet breaks and few snacks. In a 4×4 the size of a large wheelbarrow, we began to experience cabin fever. This little petrol station saved lives that day.
It really was what I imagined snow blindness to be like, hours of endless scenes like this.
2. Some luckImagine our elation when we entered into some good luck, and sunshine! Everything looked brighter and more wonderful. Our adventure up north was back on track.
We’d already decided (well, some of us had) that after Varmahlíð we would take the long way round to our farmhouse, via the Siglufjörður peninsula. Drunk on sunshine and photo opportunities, we decided to take a further detour, to see Hólar Cathedral. Hólar was, for 700 years, the capital of the north. Worth the extra mileage but it did cost us precious daylight driving…
3. High up near the Arctic‘Like driving on glass’ was the assessment of road conditions throughout the whole trip, especially true of this completely deserted peninsula route. We followed it past Hofsós (one of the oldest ports in northern Iceland) and Fell, towards our pitstop of Siglufjörður.
A beautifully rosy sunset heralded us as we looked out towards the Arctic Circle, so close we could almost pinch it and the furthest north we’ve ever been. For now.
4. A pitstopWe could escape the night no longer. Finally reaching Siglufjörður, we stocked up on the essentials every adventurer and northern lights seeker needs: meatballs, sauce, chips, birthday cake.
We were still 93km away from our X on the map, and by this point running on empty. A routine loo stop on the side of a road became a rescue mission to push our 4×4 out of a snow drift ditch.
5. The last kmOur traumatised Suzuki Jimny parked up and luggage weighing heavily on our backs, we began the farmhouse ascent. A pair of inner gloves between me and certain chilblains.
But the moon! Everything was so ethereal and I could just make out faint shapes in the sky behind me, dancing every so often.
At the same time I didn’t have a clue where I was going and got separated from everyone else, clawing my way through a wooded area that we later discovered was way off the main track, so deep was the snow drift.
After lots of clumsy phone torch holding and stabbing in the dark to find the hidden keys for the main door, we’d finally arrived at our farmhouse. Adventure complete.
But, hang on, those dancing shapes…
6. Aurora BorealisThe magic spectacle of the northern lights as they pranced and shimmered in the sky above us, rippling and darting about in every which way.
It had such a hold over us as we stood shivering in the snow. It was 3am before we could tear ourselves away.
Sometimes the lights would swirl over our heads and other times the luminescent colour appeared like huge spotlights from behind the distinctive mountain range ahead.
Common as the sight is in northern Iceland, seeing them in winter is never guaranteed. As some scientific opinion suggests, we may be headed for a ‘Solar Minimum’ in 2019 and the chance of seeing Aurora Borealis could reduce.
7. Was it a dream?At dawn, a completely different scene before us and, as we wiped the sleep from our eyes, we worried we may never see a show like that again. Had we actually seen them for real the night before?!
We had, and we would enjoy more shows before we left Iceland.
Acute mountain sickness isn’t fun. Dominating the peaks of South America was going to be harder than I foresaw. As I stumbled steeply upwards at the back of the pack, our local walking guide Henry an ever-smaller speck in the distance, I asked myself: could I cut it?
We had arrived at the Secret Garden hostel in the Ecuadorian Andes less than 24 hours earlier from the country’s capital Quito, recommended by the friends we were visiting in Ecuador. Unrivalled views of Cotopaxi volcano by day and a tapestry of billions of stars by night. We had found our gateway to adventure within this most sweeping of mountain ranges.
The 4,721ft Rumiñahui volcano was the first of three hikes we would take on in this corner of the Andes. Even with the luxury of time to acclimatise to altitude, it isn’t an easy climb.
Henry’s girlfriend – second in command – did her best to chivvy me along, but my body could go no faster setting than ‘glacial’. As I inched along, frustrated that I wasn’t going to make the peak like everyone else, I turned around and it dawned on me. The view! Everyone else focused on toppling Rumiñahui but my end goal had shifted.
The Andean panorama that surrounded me deserved to be ogled at and ruminated over, its great plains and rocky crags defiant against blue skies and clumps of cloud.
Yes, I was cut out for this.
How it felt not to have to climb any higher at altitude. Until Cotopaxi the next day!That view.Other backpackers, most had been in South America for months, far more acclimatised than me!What comes up must come down. Our reward for climbing so high was to then hurl ourselves wacky races style down near vertical sandy paths.
The clocks have gone back. An extra hour in bed was good while it lasted, but pretty soon winter will properly set in and sunshine will seem soft and distant.
With my next pay cheques already spent on Christmas presents and nothing left in the piggy bank, hopes of a new year spent on the banks of the river Ganges are dashed. So I’ve decided there’s only one thing for it – put my headphones on, close my eyes, and travel ten times around the world – in music.
And I thought I’d share with you my efforts. I’ve curated two Spotify playlists:
Would you rather be sat where you are right now, or on some small island far, far away? It’s a no-brainer, right?
Sailing away from the mainland towards a speck of rock in the distance and the promise of laid-back island life is about as different from the daily grind and the crowded pollution of city life as you can get.
Take five and try one of these memorable islands out for size:
Samos, Greece
What to know… Samos is actually closer to Turkey, lying 2km from the Turkish mainland. In the North Aegean group of islands, it’s bigger than its neighbours Patmos, Icaria and Fournoi. Claim to fame? It was the birthplace of mathematician Pythagoras.
Don’t miss… freshly-baked baklava at bargain prices, a hike to the secluded Megalo Seitani beach (pictured at the top – don’t forget your water!) and scenic sunset drives to the ends of the island.
Getting there… Ferries run 3-4 times weekly from Athens’s Piraeus port to Karlovassi and Vathy on Samos. Blue Star Ferries early bird fares start from €20 one way.
Staying there… Pantheon apartments are situated in the pretty little fishing village of Ormos, south west on the island, close to the beach (and all that baklava).
Ischia, Italy
What to know… Ischia, in the Bay of Naples, starred in The Talented Mr Ripley. Though its director Anthony Minghella called Ischia and nearby Procida the ‘less admired sisters of glamorous Capri’, I’d take Ischia’s laid-back charm over Dolce & Gabbana any day.
Don’t miss… a night time dip – drink in hand – at the Sorgeto hot springs, a wander around the oasis of La Mortella gardens, or take your pick of wonderful beaches and fantastic swimming spots such as Chiaia beach.
Getting there… the most frequent sailings from Naples are with Caremar, taking 90 minutes. Return tickets start at €31.20 for a return on foot.
Staying there… Paolo’s panoramic apartment in the north western town of Forio lives up to its name, you can almost see the sunbathers stretched out on Chiaia beach.
Mull, Scotland
What to know… Mull is the second largest island in the inner Hebrides, nicknamed Eagle Island for the white-tailed and golden eagles successfully reintroduced there.
Don’t miss… a wildlife tour of the island (so many eagles!) with Pam and Arthur from Discover Mull, fish and chips on the pier of Tobermory’s colourful harbour, stargazing.
Getting there… Caledonian MacBrayneferries have a monopoly on the Hebrides – choose island hopping with a Hopscotch ticketor a return car journey from Oban on the mainland to Craignure port will cost £33.
Staying there… On a quiet stretch of road west of Tobermory,Clachan Cottagehas stunning sunset views over Loch Cuin, just the right level of remote but accessible.
The Stockholm Archipelago
What to know… For those times when you just can’t decide on one, the Stockholm Archipelago has 30,000 islands! Bustling Vaxholm is the unofficial capital, with defences built in the 1500s by King Gustav Vasa (they’ve lasted a bit longer than his sunken ship.)
Don’t miss… exploring the islands by bike. Tour quiet island Svartsö, sampling the local drinking water at Storträsk lake, or challenge yourself on steep forest paths. Visit Utö Bageri for its famous bread or chill on Vaxholm, grabbing lunch at Boulangerie.
Getting around… Waxholmsbolaget ferries will take you to most major islands, and you can pay by card or use a regular travelcard. Don’t get left behind on the jetty – some have signposts that captains look out for, or if it’s dark, use a flashlight.
Isla de la Plata from Puerto López, Ecuador
What to know… Colloquially known as the Poor Man’s Galapagos, Ecuador’s Isla de la Plata is a little easier to get to, only 20 miles from the coast. The island teems with remarkable birds including red and blue-footed boobies and albatrosses.
Don’t miss… a chance to witness majestic migrating humpback whales around the island from June – September. If venturing from Puerto López, keep your eyes peeled for vultures on the beaches making the most of the fresh catches of fish brought in on boats.
Getting there… This uninhabited ‘Island of Silver’ is best reached from Puerto López, where there are many operators – have a wander and don’t be afraid to barter. You can choose to day trip to the island or go wildlife watching off its coast, with optional extras including snorkelling.
If you’re still looking for a long weekend destination, consider visiting Porto, the gem of northern Portugal and home of all things Port.
Three days is plenty of time to enjoy this compact city with its Port tastings, bling cathedrals and high quality tours. Sample lipsmacking seafood and tapas, relax in a bar to the sounds of live music with the locals or sail along the river with its six bridges.
Follow my 72 hour guide of the best things to do, see, eat and drink.
Day one
As soon as you arrive, head across the impressive Ponte de Dom Luís I bridge for the Vila Nova da Gaia waterfront. If it looks similar to the Eiffel Tower, that’s because it was designed by Téophile Seyrig who worked with Gustave Eiffel before the Parisian tower went into construction.
Stroll among the stalls and grab a traditional Portuguese pastry or get cracking on the Port sampling and head for Sandeman’s Port terrace. Relax with an ice cream from the nearby gelateria (from €2) or take the cable car up to the Monastery, Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar for excellent views over the Douro river (€6 one way, with free Port tasting token).
Cross back over the river and make a beeline for the historical and lively Ribeira Quarter, designated a UNESCO world heritage site. Wander round the imposing Sé Cathedral, dating from the 12th century, or gawp at what 100kg of gold leaf looks like inside the Gothic Igreja de São Francisco.
Cal bar, a cool little hangout in Ribeira
Stick with Ribeira and head to fledgling bar Cal on Avenida Vimara Peres for expertly-chosen Ports, wines and beers from a brother-sister team.Their food offering is minimalist, but the herby feta bruschetta is delicious (€6).
While away the rest of the evening in any of the bars along Galeria de Paris, lively even on a Sunday evening. A good place to start is Alma for experimental cocktails at low prices, and live music into the night.
Day two
Start your second day in Porto the only way anyone should, and devour a few pastel de nata Portuguese custard tarts. I tried three different types and although Nata Lisboa on Rua das Flores is the most popular, they are so heavy with filling that the bottoms can fall off! Instead I recommend good value Pastelaria Bela Torreon Rua Carmelitas for their crispy, moreish versions.
Swarms of tourists inside Livraria Lello
Bela Torre is next to the famous Livraria Lello bookshop, frequented by J.K. Rowling when she lived in Porto and said to have inspired her writing. If you must go, be prepared to queue twice and pay €4 to get in (redeemable against a book purchase).
It’s hellish inside, with hardly any room to move, although they do sell branded water should you start to waiver.
Far more satisfying is a trip to the Palácio da Bolsa, site of Porto’s stock exchange, back when Portugal had two! You can only visit by joining a tour. They’re incredibly popular and many tours sell out hours in advance, so try queueing when they open to guarantee tickets. For €12.50 you can get a combination ticket including the Clérigos Tower and museum.
Palácio da Bolsa’s Hall of Nations
Don’t leave Porto without trying a Portuguese prego steak sandwich. Prégar on Largo São Domingos does them beautifully, the ladies running the kitchen working non-stop to prepare mountains of beef for hungry customers. There are seven options on the menu but you don’t need to look much further than the Clássico (€8.20). Herbivores don’t miss out, the Vegetariano is stuffed full of cheese, mushrooms, honey and walnuts (€7).
Day three
Having conquered most of central Porto, get out into the suburbs to Boavista and start your final day with a tour around the impressive Casa da Música.
The twice-daily €7.50 tour is really well guided around lots of fantastic architectural spaces, quirky rooms and concert spaces complete with interactive instruments that you can try out.
Take some time out to explore nearby Jardim do Palácio de Cristal, a lovely botanical garden overlooking the Douro river, where peacocks roam and palm trees loom tall. Or, make your way to the water’s edge of Ribeira Quay and book places on a six bridges boat tour. There are plenty of operators offering tours in old Rabelo cargo boats, taking you up and down the Douro, under the bridges in 50 minutes, for €15.
Leaving the best till last, make your way over the Dom Luís I bridge for the last time, and indulge in an afternoon at the Taylor’s cellars, followed by a Port tasting.
Sporting one of the oldest Port houses, the Taylor’s audio tour is fascinating and full of information, the rows and rows of barrels make for great photos and the shop and tasting bar are set amidst beautiful gardens, the perfect location to taste Taylor’s magnificent selection of Ports. The best value package is the €12 tour and tasting of their Chip Dry white and Ruby Ports, both magnificent.